Hyun Mi Nielsen Fall/Winter 2017 Couture collection presented during the Parisian Haute Couture fashion week.
Discover all the show looks just below.
Nina Simone dressed in a net attire, the golden age of haute couture, folk costumes, punks, Scandinavian Midsummer and 50s pointy boobs. From Hyun Mi Nielsen’s second collection materialises a woman at the intersection of romanticism and the modern world, reflecting upon the plight of contemporary fashion. She is of the new world, yet finds consolation in the old. Similar to the debut collection, a dichotomy between innocence and compelling eroticism is manifest in ruffles, graphic tulle pieces and perforated lattices.
The collection is laced with traces of history. Hyun Mi Nielsen’s nostalgic fascination with haute couture is intact, yet it is marked by a transitioning towards daywear. A trapeze dress with an over- dimensional leg-of-mutton sleeve trailing on the floor is twisted couture. Vintage denim, reworked into a fitted top, bears the marks of history and treats workwear as couture. A large
coat with a panel of ruffles at the back combines functional clothing with sculptural surprises. Lattice bell-bottom trousers is a reminder of Hyun Mi Nielsen’s ubiquitous interest in the 70s, whereas patent black trousers, offset by a large white zipper, are sensual and contemporary.
The juxtapositions of workwear and occasion wear in black, ivory, yellow, red and denim blue make the collection both wearable and extraordinary. Classical couture fabrics, including embroidered lace, moire, tulle and taffeta, are counterbalanced with patent black, printed snake and cotton jacquards. The presentation takes inspiration from Hyun Mi Nielsen’s Scandinavian
background. A Midsummer maypole, in all its phallic glory, represents the summer solstice when magical elements are strongest. What is usually a white-dressed ritual of unyielding joy, is in the vision of Huyn Mi Nielsen a gloomy ring dance with a gang of punks.
Accessories for the collection are collaborations with jewellery designer Catalina Brenes and shoe designer Zoe Lee.